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ABRAHAM ORTUÑO: FASHION MADE HIS WAY
ABRAHAM ORTUÑO: FASHION MADE HIS WAY
By Laura Martínez
The designer from Alicante is known for his original shoe and accessory designs, which is why JW Anderson, Margiela, and Jacquemus have sought out his talent. In his solo venture, ABRA, he has managed to combine tradition, pop culture, and avant-garde with a very personal touch. In this conversation, we delve into his origins, his early influences, and the references that shaped his creative vision.
I’ve read that you’ve considered yourself a designer since you were little. Who were your first influences?
A.O.: From a very young age, I’ve always been fascinated by figures who dared to break the mold. Among my earliest influences are undoubtedly John Galliano and Dolce & Gabbana. Galliano, for his theatricality, his ability to tell stories through clothing, and to create complete universes; and Dolce & Gabbana, for that mix of luxury and Mediterranean culture that makes you feel instantly connected to the clothing. They taught me that fashion could be much more than just getting dressed—it could be a statement of personality.
The women in your life have been vital in your creative imagination. In your opinion, which garment best defines a woman’s character?
A.O.: Without a doubt, shoes. I believe that dressing from the feet up can completely change how you feel. If you’re having a low-mood day, the right pair of shoes can transform you entirely: they can make you feel super powerful, elegant, or even cozy and comfortable, depending on what you need in that moment. It’s fascinating how one accessory can be so decisive in a woman’s attitude and in how she interacts with her surroundings.
Accessories are the key to your success, but you don’t limit yourself to just bags and shoes. What do you enjoy most doing?
A.O.: What excites me the most is visiting factories and seeing the whole creative process up close. It’s an incredibly fascinating world, full of details that are often invisible but crucial for bringing a design to life. It’s there that you truly understand the magnitude of the work behind each piece and how much we owe to all the people who make our designs a reality. It’s a constant learning experience and an endless source of inspiration.
You’ve designed for Jacquemus and JW Anderson. Of all the brands you’ve left your mark on, which one has influenced you the most, and why?
A.O.: More than a specific brand, I’d say the people I’ve worked with and learned from have left the biggest mark on me. Elena Cardona is a clear example: she was the jewelry and bag designer at Margiela when Margiela himself was still active in the brand, and she taught me everything I know about precision, creativity, and translating an idea into something tangible. These types of lessons, both personal and professional, are what truly leave a lasting impression.
With your eponymous brand ABRA, there’s room for a personal identity that people somehow already knew, even through other brands. With that advantage, what has it meant for you to go solo? Pros and cons?
A.O.: Going solo has been an exercise in equal parts freedom and responsibility. Understanding the fashion system and how to surprise clients with fresh ideas is essential. Over the years, observing what has sold the most and what has had the greatest impact has taught me to make more strategic decisions while never losing my creative essence. The advantage is being able to express something completely personal; the disadvantage, realizing that every decision rests on you. But that pressure is also incredibly stimulating.
Finally, what have you enjoyed most about Los Felices, and what would you add to its fashion concept to make the experience even more complete?
A.O.: I loved the hotel’s philosophy: there’s no need to leave to enjoy unique experiences, and everything is designed to keep guests entertained and surprised at all times. I think it’s a fabulous concept. If I were to suggest something more, it might be interesting to organize a contest for emerging designers. It would be a way to connect fashion with the venue, bring fresh energy to the concept, and open a window to new ideas.
